How to Make Bias Tape + Bias Tape Cutting Chart
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Bias tape is created by cutting strips of fabric at a 45 degree angle across the fabric rather than on the straight grain. This is the “bias” of the fabric, which has more stretch. After cutting the strips, you sew them together (also at a 45 degree angle) to create one long strip. While you can iron bias tape by hand, it is tedious and difficult.
That’s why bias tape makers exist! A bias tape maker is a metal tool that you slide over the fabric as you iron. The tool neatly folds the edges of the fabric under as you slide it along. By ironing the strip as it comes out of the tool, you press the folds in place to create crisp, neat bias tape.
Supplies for Making Bias Tape
- Bias tape making tools (available from Amazon, Clover Brand, WAWAK, quilting shops, etc.)
- Woven fabric such as quilting cotton (you ideally want at least ½ yard to create strips that are long enough)
- Iron & ironing board
- Cutting mat
- Rotary cutter
- Quilting ruler (24″ long is best)
- Starch spray or water spray bottle
- Optional: Painter’s tape/washi tape for marking lines on your ruler (helpful!)
Bias Tape Size Chart for Cutting Strips of Fabric
Bias tape makers are typically sold in sets with 5 sizes. They are standard colors regardless of the brand you buy. Most sets include green, orange, yellow, red, and blue. The XL silver or black bias tape makers are usually sold separately.
You can identify the size based on the color or the number stamped in the back of the tool (6, 9, 12, 18, or 25). These numbers refer to the size of single fold bias tape in millimeters.
The chart below explains what size you need to cut strips of fabric for each size of bias tape maker. It also includes the finished size of single fold and double fold bias tape.
Get a free printable PDF of this chart and tutorial in my Ko-Fi shop!
Preparing Your Fabric
Depending on what you are using the bias tape for, you may want to prewash your fabric.
- Using bias tape on a garment (like a quilt coat): I recommend prewashing the fabric. Woven fabrics like quilting cotton shrink, and your garments can become misshapen if you skip prewashing the bias tape fabric.
- Using bias tape on a quilt: I usually don’t prewash my bias tape fabric when using it to bind the edge of a quilt.
Whether you wash the fabric or not, you will want to iron it to remove any creases before cutting strips. If you plan on using starch when making the bias tape, be sure to starch the fabric when doing the initial ironing. Starch can cause fabric to shrink slightly, so it is best to use it when pressing the fabric and making the bias tape to ensure nothing gets distorted.
Preparing Your Ruler (Optional)
Use a piece of painter’s tape or washi tape to mark the 45 degree angle on your quilting ruler. This is a visual guide that will help you line up the fabric for cutting strips.
Next, determine what width your strips need to be for your size of bias tape (see table). Place a long strip of tape along that measurement line on your ruler. For example, if I’m using the red/18 mm bias tape maker, I will place a line of tape along the 1.5″ line on my ruler.
How to Cut Strips of Fabric to Make Bias Tape
- Lay your fabric on a cutting mat and line up the selvedge with one of the vertical measurement lines on your mat. It doesn’t matter which, just as long as you have the selvedge aligned straight.
- Position your ruler so that its 45 degree line is along the selvedge of the fabric (or is aligned with any of the vertical lines on your cutting mat). (Image 1)
- Slide the ruler so that it covers the bottom left corner of the fabric, then cutting along the edge of the ruler at 45 degrees, cut off a triangle of fabric that is about 6″ wide. This is done so that your first strip isn’t super short. Save the triangle for your scrap bin! (Image 2)
- Keeping the 45 degree line on your ruler aligned with the selvedge or a vertical line on your cutting mat, move the ruler up so that it covers the correct width of fabric for your strip (Image 3). My strip needs to be 1.5″, so I have my ruler covering a 1.5″ strip of fabric (this is where the tape line comes in handy).
- Cut along the edge of the ruler to create a strip of fabric.
- Now, you will repeat this process. Move your ruler up so that it is covering the correct width of fabric again, then cut another strip. Continue this until you have as many strips as you like. (Image 4)
Preparing Your Strips of Fabric
Before sewing, I like to trim off the pointed ends of my fabric strips. This is a personal preference, and I think it makes it easier to align them for sewing strips (Image 5). Some people leave the points on their fabric, and this is perfectly fine too.
Next, you will need to align your strips so that you can sew them together. You will take two strips and lay them right sides together at a 90 degree angle. Make sure there is ¼” of fabric extending above each strip (Image 6).
The reason you lay them perpendicular (90 degrees) to one another is that this allows you to sew them together at an angle while still creating a straight strip of fabric in the end.
You don’t want to lay them end to end and sew across the ends of the strips. Doing so would result in a bulky seam that is A: visible on your finished project and B: difficult to feed through the bias tape maker.
If you like, you can pin the strips together (Image 7) before sewing, or simply grab them and position them as you sew. Pinning can help you maintain the 90 degree angle you need between the two strips.
Tip: I usually just eyeball it when I’m sewing, but if it helps, you can also draw a line across your fabric as a stitching guide. The line to the right shows where you will be stitching in the next step.
Sewing Your Strips Together
Next, we will be sewing the strips together. You want to keep three things in mind:
- You are always sewing at a 45 degree angle across the strips to join them together.
- You want to backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to secure it.
- You want the fabric pieces to remain at a 90 degree angle to one another as you are sewing, or else your strips won’t be straight.
Start at the top edge where the fabrics intersect. Begin sewing at the edge of the top strip where it overlaps with the bottom strip.
Backstitch at the beginning of the seam, then sew in a straight line to the other edge of the fabric, aiming for the intersection between the two strips. Backstitch at the end.
Repeat this for all your strips. You can chain piece them together to save thread (begin sewing the next one without cutting the thread in the middle).
Prepping Your Fabric Strip
When done sewing the pieces together to create one long strip, you will trim the corners of the fabric ¼” away from your seam. Trim off the tiny dog ear corners too (Image 8).
Next, you will want to press your seams open so that the strip of fabric lays nice and flat before you feed it through your bias tape maker. You can press them open or press them to one side (Image 9). Both methods work.
If pressing to one side, press so that the seam will be pointing away from the direction that you will feed the strip through the bias tape maker. This will help it feed more smoothly.
How to Use a Bias Tape Maker
Now that your fabric strip is prepared, you will feed it through the bias tape maker. You will slide it into the large end of the bias tape maker with the wrong side of the fabric facing you. It helps to have an angled tip, as this goes through more easily (Image 10).
If you don’t want to cut this, you can push it through and use a needle or pointed tool to catch the fabric in the top slot, then pull it through. Most bias tape makers have this design.
Pull the bias tape until it comes out the end by about 1-2″ or long enough for you to grab the end and place it under your iron (Image 11).
My Method for Making Bias Tape
At this point, my instructions for making bias tape differ from those that come with almost every set of bias tape making tools. If you’ve struggled to make bias tape before, try this and see if it works for you!
Most bias tape making tools will tell you to pull the fabric through as shown in image 11 above. The instructions tell you to use the little handle to pull the bias tape maker along while pressing the folded fabric with your iron as it comes out.
This method works fine for some people, but I have always struggled with it. Instead, I flip the bias tape maker upside down as shown in image 12. With this method, the silver side of the tool is facing you. To slide the tool along, you will need to hold the sides rather than the little handle, but it works just fine.
I do this because it makes the fold so much easier to press in place as you are pulling the tool along and ironing. With the traditional method, it’s far too easy for the iron to distort the fabric as it comes out, resulting in messy and frustrating bias tape.
Whether you try my method or follow the traditional way, you will create the bias tape by pulling the tool along and following it with your iron to press the fabric as it comes out of the bias tape maker (Image 13). I hold the tool in one hand and the iron in the other, moving both simultaneously.
3 Tips for Making Bias Tape
- Use a dry iron (no steam). This is because your hand will be close to the end of the iron as you’re working. Steam can shoot out and burn you.
- Before ironing, wrap the fabric around a toilet paper roll and place the roll at the end of your ironing board. This keeps the fabric feeding straight and prevents tangling.
- Spray each section of fabric with starch or water before it goes through the tool. This makes it easier to create crisp bias tape. Starch is highly recommended for stubborn fabrics. Water works fine too.
Bias Tape FAQ
How is single fold bias tape different from double fold bias tape?
Single fold bias tape has the edges of the fabric turned down towards the wrong side once. Double fold bias tape has the edges turned down twice. It’s confusing because technically single fold bias tape has two folds (one on each edge). Double fold bias tape is essentially single fold bias tape that has been folded down the middle a second time. Because it is folded twice, it is narrower and thicker than single fold bias tape.
How is bias tape different from quilt binding?
People often confuse bias tape and quilt binding because both are used to create a finished edge on a project. The biggest difference is that bias tape is cut on the bias (at a 45 degree angle), while quilt binding is cut on the grain line or cross grain (straight grain). As a result, bias tape is stretchy and quilt binding is not. Another difference is that quilt binding is usually only folded once in the middle (hot dog fold).
Why make bias tape when you can buy it?
Store bought bias tape comes in a limited range of options. You can find numerous colors, but it is difficult to find prints or match your colors exactly. Making your own bias tape allows you to create bias tape that matches your project exactly. It is also cost effective when you can use fabric you already have on hand.
What is bias tape used for?
Bias tape is typically used for creating a finished edge on garments. You can use bias tape to create a finished edge on any project, not just garments. Because bias tape stretches, it works great for finishing curved edges.
Can you bind a quilt with bias tape?
Absolutely! Bias tape works great as a quilt binding. Many people use bias tape instead of quilt binding because it is easy to create an edging that is the perfect width with perfect folds. You would use single fold bias tape to bind a quilt. Keep in mind that traditional quilt binding has more folded fabric, so it is thicker than single fold bias tape.
