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Zippered pouches are probably my all-time favorite thing to sew now! They’re cute. They’re small. They can show off your favorite fabrics. And you can fit a surprising amount of stuff in them!
Today I’m showing you how to make a zippered pencil case. This isn’t just for pencils. I use mine for crochet hooks but you can also store things like small purse items, essential makeup, sewing notions, jewelry, or tons of other things.
My pencil case pattern measures 7″ long by 2″ wide and 2.5″ tall. It’s the perfect size for pens, sharpies, or whatever else you want to put in it. Just like my popular packing cube pattern, the pouch is fully lined with no exposed seams and no binding required!
Fabric & Notions
And as with my packing cube pattern, I designed this pattern to work with pre-cut fabrics. You can make one of these with two pieces of layer cake fabric! If you don’t know what a layer cake is, it’s a quilt fabric bundle that’s pre-cut to 10″ squares.
If you don’t have a layer cake, you can use any quilting fabric! For the liner you need two pieces of fabric measuring 10″ by 4.5″ and for the outer fabric you need one piece of fabric measuring 10″ by 8.5″.
Fabric: 2x 10″ layer cake squares or 1x fat quarter (you will have fabric left over) or any other piece of fabric in the correct dimensions (above)
Interfacing or batting measuring approx. 10″ by 8.5″
Note: If you are not using a fusible interfacing, you may also want to pick up some Odif 505 fabric adhesive spray. An adhesive keeps your interfacing and fabric together, making it much easier to sew.
* I like using 14″ zippers because it allows you to completely unzip the zipper when attaching it to the bag. This makes it easier to sew without having to move the zipper pull. The excess length of zipper tape can be cut off in a later step. If you don’t have a 14″ zipper, you need one that is at least 10″ long to fit this pouch.
Zippered Pencil Case Sewing Pattern
The last thing you need is my free printable sewing pattern to make this project. My patterns are available as PDF downloads on my Ko-Fi shop. I have them set up so you can get the pattern for free or make a donation if you choose. If you have trouble accessing a pattern, please read my PDF pattern help article. You don’t need a Ko-Fi account to access my store.
Here’s how to print and cut out the pattern:
Visit my Ko-Fi shop and get your copy of the pattern.
Download the PDF and print it on 8.5 x 11″ printer paper at 100% scale.
Check the 1″ measurement box on the template to ensure you have the correct scale.
Cut out the pattern pieces along the black line.
There is one pattern piece for the liner and one piece for the outer fabric. The liner is cut in two separate pieces while the outer fabric is cut on the fold. I designed it this way so you don’t have a bulky seam on the bottom of the pouch.
I love designing patterns! This is a free pattern but I put a lot of work and love into it. If you’re enjoying this pattern, please consider donating to my Ko-Fi page to help me make more tutorials like this!
Step 1: Preparing Your Fabric
Before cutting, I recommend attaching batting to your outer fabric. It’s easiest to cut the rough shape of the fabric (10″ by 8.5″) first and then attach it to your batting. We will use the pattern to cut out the notches in the next step.
If using fusible batting or interfacing, simply follow the instructions for attaching it. For non-fusible batting, spray the back of your fabric with Odif 505 (or a similar fabric adhesive) and stick the fabric to the batting.
I recommend that you cut your batting about 1/4″ to 3/8″ smaller than your fabric. This will allow you to attach the zipper and sew the side seams without so much bulk in the seams. It’s more helpful along the 10″ edges of the fabric because this is where we will be attaching the zipper. I find it doesn’t make as much of a difference to trim the batting smaller on the 8.5″ edges of the fabric.
(In the photo below I’ve already done the quilting).
Optional: Quilting Your Fabric
If you would like to quilt the outer layer of the pouch (aka do decorative top-stitching), it’s easiest to do it now before cutting the notches with the pattern. I like using my free-motion quilting foot to do a scrolling loop design. However, you could do any design. Even simple lines would look great.
Step 2: Cutting Your Fabric
Now you’re ready to cut out the fabric! You can start with the liner or the outer fabric.
For the liner:
Fold your fabric in half and pin the LINER FABRIC template to the fabric.
Cut around the entire outline of the template.
Save the scraps of fabric you cut from the notches, as we will use some of them later.
Mark the zipper (top) edge with fabric chalk or place a pin in the fabric. You need to know which side the zipper goes on in the next step.
Note: If you have a directional print on your fabric, use the arrow on the LINER FABRIC template to make sure your print goes in the right direction (the download will have the arrow – I didn’t have it printed on there when taking these photos). This may require that you cut the two pieces separately instead of cutting them both at the same time.
For the outer fabric:
Fold your fabric in half and place the OUTER FABRIC template so the arrows are lined up with the fold.
While pressing the fold down, pin the pattern in place. It’s very important that the fabric doesn’t shift along the fold line because it will affect how the bag lines up in later steps.
Cut around the template, being careful to NOT cut the fold line.
If you have an outer fabric with a directional print, I’ve included instructions on the template for handling this. The process involves using the LINER FABRIC template instead to cut your outer fabric pieces.
Step 3: Attaching the Zipper
Now that you have all your pieces cut, the next step is to sew on the zipper. To make a bag without exposed seams, you need to sandwich the layers of fabric in a particular way.
Before sewing, it’s important to keep in mind that on a bag this small, even the slightest variation in seam allowance or cutting can affect how the corners line up. Do the best you can to keep every seam aligned neatly. If you can’t get it perfect, try again and don’t give up. When I made one of my samples, my corners (in step 7) were more than 1/4″ off on either side because I didn’t cut the outer fabric perfectly. While it was difficult to sew the corners, I still was able to make it work and I still love the pouch. 🩷
We will start by sewing the zipper to one side of the pouch:
Lay the outer fabric on the table face up towards you.
Open the zipper and place it face down along one of the 10″ long sides of the fabric. The zipper should be laying over top of the liner fabric (instead of extending above it). I like using 14″ zippers so that I can have a few inches of extra zipper along both sides of the bag (these will be trimmed off later but it makes sewing easier).
Take one of your liner fabrics and lay it face down on top of the zipper. Make sure the zipper (top) edge is lined up with the zipper. If you aren’t sure, check the fabric against your template so you’re sewing on the correct edge.
Pin or clip along the edge.
Attach a zipper foot to your sewing machine.
Starting approx. 1/2″ from the end of the fabric, sew the seam with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Stop when you are 1/2″ from the end of the fabric.
Now we will sew the zipper to the other side of the pouch:
Fold the sandwich you just sewed so that the wrong sides of the liner and outer fabric are touching.
Lay the fabric on the table with the outer fabric face up towards you.
Fold the sewn zipper edge so that the un-sewn half of the zipper tape is laying face down on the un-sewn outer fabric edge.
Lay the un-sewn liner fabric face down on top of the zipper tape. Make sure the zipper (top) edge is lined up with the zipper.
Position the zipper so that the ends are even. You may find it helps to pin together the open end of the zipper to keep the zipper tape in the right position (this is important so the zipper will close properly after sewing).
Pin or clip along the edge.
Starting approx. 1/2″ from the end of the fabric, sew the seam with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Stop when you are 1/2″ from the end of the fabric.
Top Stitching the Zipper
To add a decorative touch and make the bag easier to zip, I recommend doing top stitching along the edge of the zipper. You will start by pressing the fabric away from the zipper using your iron. Be sure to turn down the heat if you have a plastic zipper or it may melt.
Make sure you press the fabric down evenly across the entire length of the zipper. In one of my samples, I didn’t press the fabric down very evenly and I top-stitched it in place before realizing. This caused the ends of my bag to not line up properly in step 6 below. I had to rip it out and re-sew the end 😢
After pressing the fabric, stitch the fabric as close as you can to the edge of the zipper, sewing through all the layers.
As with the other stitching along the zipper, start and stop your stitching about 1/2″ from the ends. This will allow you to stitch other seams later.
Step 4: Sew Liner Bottom Seams
Next we will be sewing part of the bottom closed. We need to leave an opening so the bag can be turned later. You can switch to a regular presser foot if you like. I personally just leave my zipper foot on because you need it to sew the ends of the bag in step 6.
Fold the bag so that the right sides of the liner fabric are touching.
Pin the bottom of the liner together.
Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew for about 2″ from both edges and stop, leaving an opening about 5-6″ long in the middle.
Press the seam flat. I like to press all the way across the opening so that the edges are folded under. This helps when stitching the lining closed at the end.
Step 5: Sew Decorative Tabs
This is an optional step but I think it adds a really nice touch to the bag. Using the scrap fabric from cutting the notches in the pattern, we can sew some decorative tabs to go at the ends of the zipper. These are cute but also give you something to grab while zipping or unzipping the bag.
I like using the liner fabric for a nice pop of contrast. You can use the outer fabric if you like.
Take one of your liner fabric pieces and fold the long edges toward the center by about 1/4″ on each side.
Press with an iron.
Fold the tab in half so the raw ends meet and press again. The folded-in fabric should be on the inside.
Stitch as close as you can to the edge of the tab around three sides, leaving the raw edge un-stitched.
Step 6: Sew Ends of Bag
Now we will be sewing the ends of the bag where the zipper stops and starts. The liner and outer fabric will be sewn separate from one another. We will start by sewing the liner.
Liner Instructions
Zip the zipper closed a little ways so that the zipper pull is a few inches inside the bag. You don’t want to close the zipper all the way or it will be hard to turn the bag later.
Fold the bag so that the liner fabric is touching right-sides-together.
On one end of the bag, line up the edges of the liner fabric and pin the zipper and outer fabric out of the way.
Using a zipper foot, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance across the seam. You will be sewing the ends of the flaps together, but in the middle you will just be sewing through the single layer of liner. We will sew the end of the zipper to the liner in a later step.
Repeat steps 2-4 with with the other end of the bag.
Outer Fabric Instructions
Fold the bag so that the outer fabric is right-sides-together.
On one end of the bag, line up the edges of the outer fabric and pin the liner out of the way.
In the exact middle, insert one of your decorative tabs, sandwiching it between the zipper and bottom of the pouch.
Pin or clip along the end of the bag, ensuring the tab remains in place and that the zipper is lined up properly in the middle.
Using a zipper foot, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance across the end of the bag. You will be sewing through the zipper. If you wish, you can back-stitch over the zipper to make it extra secure.
Repeat steps 2-5 on the other end of the bag. Don’t forget to insert the decorative tab!
Securing the Zipper
After sewing the ends of the outer fabric, fold the ends of the bag so all the layers are lined up on top of each other. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, stitch over just the end of the zipper through all the layers. This should just be a short seam across the end of the zipper tape. Do not sew all the way across the end of the bag or you won’t be able to sew the corners in the next step. Repeat on the other end of the bag.
Step 7: Sew the Corners
You’re almost done! After sewing the ends of the bag, you can stitch the corners. You’ll repeat this process on all 8 corners. It doesn’t matter which corner you start with.
Fold the corner flat so that the right sides of the fabric are touching and the seam is in the middle.
Press the seam flat with your finger.
If you like, you can use a pin or clip to hold the fabric in place.
Stitch the seam using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
If you’re having trouble getting the corners to line up perfectly, sew as close as you can to a 1/4″ seam allowance. On a bag this small, remember that even the slightest variation in seam allowance in earlier steps can affect how the corners line up.
Step 8: Turn the Bag & Sew the Liner Closed
The last step is to turn the bag right side out and stitch the liner closed. Before stitching the liner, I like to go underneath it to push out the corners of my outer fabric. This really makes them pop. Once the outer corners are poked out, I stitch the hole in the liner with an invisible ladder stitch.
To do a ladder stitch, thread a needle and knot the thread. Insert the needle from behind the fabric so the knot is on the inside and the needle comes out in the fold of the opening.
On the opposite side of the opening, insert the needle for about 3-4 millimeters and pull the thread through. Then repeat this on the other side of the opening. Go back and forth until the opening is stitched shut. While sewing, gently snug up your stitches to keep them nice and neat. Avoid pulling or it will gather the fabric.
I hope you liked this tutorial! I’d love to see how your bag turned out! Tag me @craftingwithclementine on any social media (I’m on pretty much everything except Facebook) or use #craftingwithclementine.
