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Sewing your own packing cubes is a great way to organize for a trip. Most packing cube tutorials include a mesh fabric panel on top, but I personally don’t like using mesh. Instead, I make my packing cubes out of quilting fabric that comes in a huge array of pretty colors. To me, that makes these pouches more versatile.
These packing cubes are fully lined with no exposed seams and no piping or binding required! The lining gives the bags more structure and prevents anything from fraying. For even more structure, I added a layer of interfacing so they stand up on their own. The zipper goes across the top and extends about an inch down both sides, giving a wider opening. To make it easier to zip them up, the pattern also includes tabs that you can hold while zipping.
The finished bag is a 6″ square cube that measures about 3″ tall. Most packing cube sewing patterns also give you a bag that’s a little larger. Those are great for t-shirts and other things, but I wanted to design a bag that’s smaller.
I made them this size for a few reasons:
You can make them out of pre-cut quilting fabric with very minimal waste. I used 10″ layer cake squares. This project is also fat quarter-friendly!
They’re perfect for packing smaller items like socks, underwear, accessories, toiletries, hats, mittens, and other similar items that might not fill a large packing cube.
The small size fits really well in backpacks if you’re traveling light.
Last but not least, they’re adorable!
Supplies & Materials
You can make these fabric pouches from layer cakes (10″ squares) or fat quarters. You will need four layer cakes (two for the outside and two for the lining) OR 2 fat quarters (one for the outside and one for the lining.
4x 10″ squares of quilt fabric (layer cakes) or 2 fat quarters
Interfacing, batting, or stabilizer (see options below)
Quilt batting (will provide some structure and the bag will be soft – tends to be a bit on the thicker side to sew through for this project).
Note: If you aren’t using a fusible interfacing, you may also want to pick up some Odif 505 fabric adhesive spray.This will keep your interfacing from separating and will be much easier to sew.
Watch a video of this project! Please subscribe to my channel if you get a chance!
Step 1: Cutting the Squares
If you don’t have pre-cut 10″ square layer cakes, you will start by cutting out 4 squares. Cut two 10″ squares from your outer fabric and two 10″ squares from your liner fabric.
Step 2: Attaching the Interfacing
If using interfacing, attach it after you have your 10″ squares ready. You only need to attach stabilizer/interfacing to the outer layer. The liner will work best without a stabilizer.
To attach the stabilizer or interfacing, follow the instructions that came with your product. I used cut-a-way embroidery stabilizer, which isn’t fusible. To attach my fabric securely, I sprayed the back of the fabric with Odif 505 and placed it over the stabilizer. Finally, I cut out the stabilizer along the edges of the fabric.
Step 3: Using the Bag Template
The free download for the bag template is available on my Ko-Fi shop. You don’t need an account to access the pattern. For more info on downloading my patterns, read my pattern download help page.
Once you have your squares cut and interfacing attached to the outer fabric, follow these steps:
Print my free pattern template on 8.5 x 11″ printer paper at 100% scale. Check the 1″ measurement box on the template to ensure you have the correct scale.
Cut out the template as indicated on the print-out. Note that the template is not the full size of the fabric. The template is used for cutting out the notches from the correct location on the fabric edges.
Line up the RIGHT EDGE template with the right edge of your fabric. If there is a directional design (e.g. trees that need to be pointing the right way), line it up as indicated with the arrow on the template.
Pin the template to your fabric and cut out the indicated notch.
Next, pin the LEFT EDGE template to the left edge of the fabric. Line up the top, side, and bottom of the template with the edges of the fabric. Cut out the indicated notch.
I recommend using a pin, clip, or fabric chalk to mark the “zipper (top) edge.” The notch is close enough to the middle that it’s hard to tell which end is the top just by glancing at it.
Repeat this process with the remaining 3 squares of fabric. Be sure to save the scraps of fabric that you cut out. We will be using these to make zipper tabs and pull tabs.
This is a free pattern but I put a lot of work and love into it. Please consider donating to my Ko-Fi page to help me make more patterns like this!
Step 4: Sewing Zipper Tabs
We will now sew decorative zipper tabs to secure the end of the zipper and give it a more finished look in the bag. We will be using the scraps of fabric we cut from the outer fabric. If you prefer, you could use the liner fabric for a bit of contrast.
If your zipper is too long, start by trimming it down to 10″ long. The zipper needs to measure 10″ long including the tabs.
With the wrong side of the scrap fabric facing you, fold the long ends inward so they meet in the middle. Press the fabric with an iron.
Tuck the end of the zipper into the center fold of the fabric you just pressed.
Use wonder tape or pins to hold the fabric in place.
Stitch across the fabric as close as you can to the edge.
Repeat this process on the other end of the zipper.
You can trim off the excess fabric so that the fabric is flush with the edges of the zipper tape.
If you want to have tabs on the outside of your bag, you can sew the tabs now. I like including these so I have something to hold onto while zipping the bag. They’re also cute!
To make decorative tabs, you will need the scraps you cut out of the squares earlier. I like using the liner fabric scraps to create contrast. Fold the long ends toward the center by about 1/4″ on each side. Press with an iron. Then fold the tab in half so the raw ends meet and press again. The folded-in fabric should be on the inside.
If you want to add a little extra stability to the tabs, cut a rectangle of interfacing/foam/stabilizer and slide it into the tab before sewing. I used the scrap of stabilizer I cut out of my 10″ squares.
After folding and pressing, sew a narrow seam along the outer edge around 3 sides. Leave the raw edge, as it will be tucked into the bag seam later.
Step 6: Attaching the Zipper
We’re going to sandwich the layers of the bag together so the edge of the zipper is hidden between the outer fabric and liner fabric. Make sure you’re using a zipper foot for this step.
Lay one piece of the outer fabric face up. Make sure the “zipper (top) edge” is at the top. If you aren’t sure, line it up with the template to check.
Lay the zipper face down along the top edge of the fabric.
Finally, lay a piece of the liner fabric face down on top of the zipper. Double check you have the correct edge of the fabric at the top.
Use quilt clips or pins to hold the layers together.
Starting about 1/2″ in from the side, sew along the edge. As you sew, check that the zipper tape hasn’t shifted or moved away from the fabric edge. You may need to stop halfway through and zip or unzip the zipper to move the zipper pull out of the way.
Stop sewing when you’re 1/2″ from the end.
Fold the sandwiched layers so that the wrong sides of the outer and liner fabrics are touching and the remaining zipper edge is facing out.
Tip: You need to start and stop 1/2″ from the side edges so that you can sew other seams later. If you accidentally stitch all the way to the end, you will simply need to rip back a bit so you can sew the other seams easily.
Now we will attach the zipper to the other side of the bag by sandwiching the layers again (see image above).
Lay your remaining outer fabric piece on the table face up. Make sure the “zipper (top) edge” is at the top.
Lay the zipper/fabric sandwich you just sewed face down on the outer fabric piece on the table. The edge of the zipper should be lined up with the top edge.
Finally, lay the remaining liner fabric face down on top of the other layers. Make sure the “zipper (top) edge” is at the top.
Pin or clip the layers together.
Starting about 1/2″ in from the side, sew along the edge. As you sew, check that the zipper tape hasn’t shifted or moved away from the fabric edge. You may need to stop halfway through and zip or unzip the zipper to move the zipper pull out of the way.
Stop sewing when you’re 1/2″ from the side edge.
Pressing the Zipper & Top-Stitching
After attaching both sides of the zipper, press the fabric away from the zipper so it lays nice and flat. If using a plastic zipper, be sure to adjust your iron settings accordingly. You don’t want to melt the zipper!
Once the fabric is pressed, top-stitch along both sides of the zipper as close as you can to the fabric edge. Remember to start and stop 1/2″ from the edge of the fabric (even with the top stitching) so you can easily sew your other seams later.
Here is how the bag will look after attaching the zipper:
Step 7: Sewing the Bottom of the Bag
From here on, we will be sewing the outer fabric and the liner fabric separately. Aside from the zipper seams, the layers will not be sewn to each other anywhere else on the bag.
Before moving on, be sure to unzip the zipper. If you leave it closed, it will be nearly impossible to turn the bag later. I’ve done this a few times and it’s not fun!
We’re now going to stitch the bottom seam of the outer layer. Fold the bag so that the outer fabric pieces are right-sides-together. Then pin or clip along the long edge. Stitch along the entire seam using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
The liner needs to have an opening in the bottom so we can turn the bag later. To sew the liner bottom, place the liner fabrics right-sides-together. Pin or clip along the long edge. You will then sew for about 2″ from both edges and stop, leaving an opening about 6″ long in the middle.
Lastly, press your seams open, meaning that the flaps of your seam allowance should be pointing away from each other. On the liner fabric, I like to press along the opening as well. This makes it easier to sew shut at the end.
Step 8: Sewing the Ends of the Bag
We’ll be following same basic steps for both the liner and outer fabric. The only difference is that when sewing the outer fabric, you will need to remember to attach the decorative tabs. Remember the liner and outer fabric will be sewn independently from each other. If you find yourself sewing the liner to the outer fabric at any point, stop and check the instructions 🙂
For ease of sewing, make sure to use a zipper foot for this step. This will allow you to get nice and close to the intersection at the end of the zipper.
We will start by sewing the liner fabric.
Fold the bag so that the zipper is in the middle and the liner fabric is on the bottom. Position the liner fabric so that the un-sewn edges are touching at the end of the zipper.
Pin or clip along this seam. You also want to clip/pin the outer fabric out of the way so it doesn’t get caught in your stitching.
Using a zipper foot, stitch the seam with a 1/4″ seam allowance. You will be sewing through the end of the zipper tab when you get to it.
Repeat this process to sew the liner fabric at the other end of the bag.
Now that the ends of the liner fabric are sewn, we can repeat the process with the outer fabric.
Fold the bag again so that the zipper is in the middle. This time, position the bag so the outer fabric is on the bottom.
If you are using a decorative tab (step 5), position it in the center so it is between the two layers of outer fabric. The raw edge of the tab should be lined up with the raw fabric edge. Make sure the tab is in the exact center, positioned over the center of the zipper (see photo below).
After placing the tab, pin or clip along the seam and pin the liner fabric out of the way.
Stitch the seam using a 1/4″ seam allowance and sew through the end of the zipper tab when you get to it.
Repeat to sew the outer fabric at the other end of the bag. Remember to include a decorative tab on the other side as well.
Step 9: Sewing the Corners
You’re almost to the end! The last major step is to sew the corners of the bag. You will need to sew all 8 corners: The four corners in the liner and the four corners of the outer fabric. It doesn’t matter where you start – the process is the same for each corner.
Use your fingers or a flat tool to press the seams of the bag flat. If you’re able, you could use the iron instead. However, I find this difficult.
Choose a corner and fold it flat so that the seam is in the middle.
Clip or pin in the middle.
Stitch across the corner with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Repeat with the remaining corners.
It can be a little difficult to get the fabric to line up exactly along the corners. If they don’t line up perfectly, stitch a seam allowance as close to 1/4″ as you can get.
Step 10: Turning the Bag & Stitching the Liner Shut
The last step is to turn the bag right side out and stitch the hole in the liner. To turn the bag, reach inside and grab the bottom of the outer layer and pull it through. Poke the corners out so they have crisp lines.
The best way to stitch the bottom is by hand sewing a ladder stitch. To do this, thread a needle and insert it along the fold line for about 3-4 millimeters on one side of the opening. Then insert the needle along the fold line on the opposite side of the opening. Repeat this – alternating sides – until you reach the end. Gently snug up your stitches as you go, but be careful not to pull too tight and gather them.
It’s somewhat difficult to press your bag after sewing it. You can make it easier by stuffing the bag with cotton fabric or something similar. Then you can press the outer surface.
I hope you liked this tutorial! I’d love to see how your bag turned out! Tag me @craftingwithclementine on any social media (I’m on pretty much everything except Facebook) or use #craftingwithclementine.
