Packing Cube 2.0 – Updated Template!

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The first pattern I designed was my packing cube. I think it’s still my favorite of all my designs, not just because it was first but because I’ve used them on a few trips now, and they’ve helped so much with packing!

After making quite a few packing cubes, I’ve decided to streamline the process and update the template a little. As my first pattern, the original template was designed in a different style than my others. So, I mostly wanted to update it to match my current pattern style. The template is now easier to use, and I hope you also like the simpler steps for sewing!

Updating the Template for a Better Packing Cube!

Like my original, this updated template makes a 6″ square packing cube perfect for fitting socks, underwear, toiletries, small clothing items, charging cables, etc. in your suitcase or backpack.

Grab the new template in my Ko-Fi shop. Remember, you can read my help article if you need assistance downloading the pattern.

The main difference is that you will cut on the fold of the fabric rather than having two separate template pieces for each edge of the fabric. When I designed the original, that made the most sense to me. Now that I’ve designed more patterns, it seems obvious to cut the fabric on the fold instead.

In addition to updating the template, I’ve also removed the step for sewing a fabric zipper tab on the end. While I like the look, it adds quite a bit of time to the project, and it makes the zipper a little shorter. By removing the tab, you can open the bags a little farther and shave off some time when making these.

In this tutorial, I’ve also added steps for sewing lace along the zipper to make it more decorative. This is optional, but it adds so much charm and personality!

Supplies & Materials

• 4x pieces of layer cake fabric (precut 10″ squares) OR any quilt fabric measuring at least 10×10″ (x four pieces)
• Interfacing, batting, or stabilizer (see options below)
• Zipper foot
• 10″ invisible zipper (This multi-pack is my favorite!)
• Matching thread (I love Connecting Threads)
• Quilting clips or pins
• Rotary cutter, mat, and ruler (this set is nice!)
• Thread trimming scissors
• Iron & ironing board
• Optional: cotton lace or other decorative trim measuring about 20″

My favorite place to buy quilt fabric is Green Fairy Quilts. If you haven’t checked them out, go take a look! They have all my favorite precuts and yardage.

Interfacing/Stabilizer Options:

• Heavy Cut-a-Way Embroidery Stabilizer: Although not a typical material for bag-making, I love the structure this provides.
• Medium-weight non-woven fusible interfacing: This gives your bag some structure while being flexible.
• Fusible weft interfacing: This will provide very light structure but works well for giving fabric more stability.
• Soft and Stable foam: This will provide great structure while keeping the bag squishy and stable.
• Quilt batting: Provides some structure and the bag will be soft and a little floppy. I recommend trimming it smaller than the fabric so you don’t have bulky seams.

How to Sew the Packing Cube 2.0

If you’ve used my first packing cube pattern, this tutorial will have lots of familiar steps for you. Because I changed a few things, I decided to rewrite the tutorial so it makes more sense with the new template.

You can watch this quick video for an overview of sewing the packing cube! Follow me on Tik Tok for more 🙂

@craftingwithclementine

Make an adorable packing cube with me using lace details! I updated my original sewing pattern so it fits with my current style and has easier steps for sewing. This was the first pattern I ever designed so it needed a little refresh! #sewing #packingcube #zipperpouch #zippers #lace #sewingproject #sewingpattern #pdfpattern #crafttok #lacesewing

♬ Spark – Asti Fajriani

Preparing the Fabric

Begin by printing out the template at 100% scale and check that the scale box measures 1″. Cut around the black line. You will use the same template for the liner and outer fabric.

If using interfacing, batting, or any other kind of stabilizer, attach it to the wrong side of your outer fabric before cutting. You may wish to have your batting be slightly smaller than the fabric (about 1/4″ smaller on all sides) to prevent bulky seams. This isn’t necessary for thin interfacing or stabilizers that are easy to sew through.

Cutting the Fabric

Fold your fabric and place the pattern on the fold as indicated by the pattern. Cut around the pattern on all sides except for the fold.

You need two pieces of outer fabric and two pieces of liner fabric.

You can save the little rectangles of fabric that you cut out of the notch in the pattern. These work great for sewing tabs that you can hold while zipping and unzipping the bag.

Pattern Markings

The pattern has markings on it that help you keep track of which side is the bottom and which side you attach the zipper to. The instructions will refer to the pattern markings, so you may want to transfer them to your fabric to make it easier to follow along.

The triangle marking near the top corner indicates the side that you will attach the zipper to. It is positioned to help you remember where to start and stop sewing when attaching the zipper.

The dot marking at the bottom indicates where you should start and stop sewing when stitching the bottom of the liner. You need to leave an opening in the liner so the bag can be turned at the end. You don’t need to transfer this marking to the outer fabric.

Quilting

If you want to do any quilting (decorative top stitching) on the bag, I recommend doing this before starting the next steps. For bags, I quilt through the outer fabric and the batting. Because of the way this bag is assembled, you don’t want to quilt through the liner.

Making Fabric Tabs

To make decorative tabs, you can use the rectangles that you cut out of the notches in the template. Otherwise, a folded piece of lace looks adorable if you’re using lace along the zipper.

To make tabs out of fabric, fold the long ends toward the center by about 1/4″ on each side. Press with an iron. Then fold the tab in half so the raw ends meet and press again.

If you want to add extra stability to the tabs, cut a rectangle of your batting or stabilizer and slide it into the tab before sewing.

After folding and pressing, sew a narrow seam along the outer edge around 3 sides. You can leave the raw edge because it will be hidden in the seam of the bag.

Attaching the Zipper

1. Lay one piece of outer fabric face up (right side or RS up) on the table. Then lay your zipper face down (wrong side or WS down) along the edge marked with the triangle. The edge of the zipper tape should be aligned with the edge of the fabric, with the zipper laying on top of the fabric.
2. Next, lay a piece of liner face down (WS down) on top of the zipper, aligning the top edge. Make sure you’re lining up the edge marked with the triangle.
3. Pin the zipper in place and attach a zipper foot to your machine. Then, using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the layers together between the triangle markings. In other words, you will start sewing about 3/8″ away from the end of the fabric, and stop when you are 3/8″ away from the other end. This ensures you can sew the ends of the bag at a later step.
4. After sewing one side of the zipper, you will attach the other side to your other pieces of liner and outer fabric.
5. Lay your un-sewn piece of outer fabric face up (RS up) on the table. Then place the sandwich of fabric you sewed so that the zipper is face down (WS down) on the other piece of outer fabric. Lastly, lay the un-sewn liner fabric face down (WS down) on top of the sandwich.
6. Make sure that you are lining up the edges marked with the triangles. You’ll also want to ensure that the raw edges of the fabric are aligned. Because of the zipper tape, the “fabric sandwich” will be about 1/2″ longer so it won’t line up along the bottom edge. However, the left and right edges should be aligned. This ensures the zipper will be straight.
7. Like the other side, pin the layers together and then sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance, starting and stopping at the triangle markings so that your stitching doesn’t go all the way to the ends of the fabric.

Sewing the Bottoms of the Bag

1. Fold the bag so that the liner fabric is on top of the liner and the outer is on top of the outer. The right sides should be facing each other.
2. With a 1/4″ seam allowance, stitch across the bottom of the outer fabric.
3. On the liner, stitch between the edges of the fabric and the dot markings, leaving a gap in the middle so you can turn the bag at the end.
4. Press the seams open with an iron.

Sewing the Ends of the Bag

1. Fold the bag so that the zipper is in the middle and the liner fabric is on the bottom. Position the fabric so the un-sewn edges are touching at the ends of the zipper. Make sure the zipper pull is inside the bag, but not closed all the way.
2. Fold the outer fabric so that it is out of the way and pin it in place. Make sure the zipper tape is also folded out of the way. Then pin along the end of the outer fabric (the liner and outer fabrics are each sewn separately).
3. Note: It’s easier to use a zipper foot for this step. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, stitch along the end of the liner. Repeat this process on the other end of the bag to sew the liner on that side as well.

1. Next, you’ll be sewing the outer fabric in a similar fashion. The difference is that you will be sewing through the end of the zipper tape as well.
2. Flip the bag so the liner fabric is on top and the outer fabric is on the bottom. Fold the liner and pin it out of the way.
3. Note: If you want to include fabric tabs at the end, make sure to sandwich them between the zipper tape and the bottom of the outer fabric. See above for tips on making fabric tabs. You can also use a piece of folded lace instead of a fabric tab.
4. Pin along the end of the outer fabric. Then sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance, being sure to stitch through the zipper tape as well.
5. Repeat this on the other end of the bag, and be sure to include the fabric tab if you’re using these.
6. Lastly, lay the bag so the outer and liner fabrics are aligned. Then sew through all the layers over the end of the zipper tape. You’ll just be sewing the about 1″ over the end of the zipper, not all the way across. This secures all the layers together and makes the end of the zipper look nice on the inside of the bag.

Sewing the Corners

Next, you’ll be sewing all 8 corners. Take a corner and fold it so that the seam is in the middle and the right sides are touching. Pin along the edge if desired, then use a 1/4″ seam allowance to stitch the corner together.

Repeat this on all of the corners.

Finishing the Bag

After stitching all the corners, turn the bag right side out using the opening in the bottom of the liner. Poke the corners out from the inside to make them nice and pointy.

Lastly, you will stitch the liner closed. You can do this on your machine, but I prefer hand-stitching with an invisible ladder stitch.

I hope you love this tutorial and have fun sewing these! I’d love to see how they turn out. Tag me @craftingwithclementine on social media so I can see what you made!