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Sewing a pocket on knit fabric can be really challenging. Because knit fabric is stretchy, it’s very difficult to sew pockets. However, I have 3 tips for making perfect pockets every time! Use these methods and I promise your next knit pocket will look amazing.
3 Tools for Sewing Knit Pockets
Before attempting your next knit pocket, be sure to pick up at least one of these tools. Each one of them will make it much easier to sew a pocket that looks good.
Walking Foot: This sewing machine foot attachment lifts up and down while sewing. This mechanism helps pull the fabric through more neatly without puckering it. A walking foot is perfect for knit fabric, but it’s also very helpful for sewing quilts.
Wonder Tape: This is a double-sided, water soluble tape that holds fabric together. I use it every time I sew pockets because it really holds the fabric in place. You can even sew through it and it won’t gunk up your machine.
Tissue Paper: If you don’t have a walking foot or wonder tape, you can still get much better results sewing a pocket with tissue paper. By placing tissue paper under the fabric, it will create less pressure from the feed dogs (the ridged bars on your machine plate that pull the fabric through). This creates a pocket with less puckering.
I personally use a walking foot and wonder tape together. When using both these tools, I don’t need tissue paper. However, you can use all three together if you want. Using tissue paper with a walking foot has also worked well for me. Likewise, you could use just wonder tape and tissue paper if you have a regular sewing machine foot.
Need knit fabric? This is a great place to find it!
When to Attach a Pocket to a Shirt
The best time to attach a pocket is after you have cut out your shirt fabric but before you have sewn the seams together. It’s easiest to sew a pocket on without having to wrangle the sewn shirt around in your sewing machine. With that being said, you can attach the pocket after sewing the shoulder seams. But to make things easier on yourself, make sure to attach it before sewing the sleeves or side seams.
If you want to attach a pocket after the fact, you can still do this of course. You will just need to maneuver the shirt so you’re not stitching through any layers you’re not supposed to.
Assembling the Pocket
Now that we’ve covered the tools for making nice pockets, you can start sewing! I recommend following a pattern that includes a pocket. The instructions will tell you everything you need to know about assembling the pocket before sewing it to the shirt. Patterns also include markings so that you can line the pocket up in the correct spot.
If you have a pattern, follow its instructions for pocket assembly now and move onto the next section of this post.
If you don’t have a pattern, you can follow these basic instructions to assemble your pocket before stitching it to the shirt:
Cut a rectangle of fabric approximately 6″ wide by 7″ tall (fabric should be lined up with the grainline so it has more stretch width-wise).
With the wrong side facing you, fold 1/4″ of the top edge down towards the wrong side. Press.
With the right side facing you, fold 1″ of the top edge down towards the right side (right sides together). The 1/4″ fold should be facing you after completing this 1″ fold.
Stitch along the outer edges of the 1″ fold you just created using a 5/8″ seam allowance.
Trim 1/4″ away from the stitch lines you just created, stopping just before the edge of the fold. Cut this short strip of fabric off.
Turn out the flap you stitched so that the right side is facing you.
Fold the raw edges of the pocket in by 5/8″ all the way around the pocket and press. I fold the sides in first, then fold the bottom so its fold line is on top.
Top stitch across the 1″ fold as close as you can to the edge of the fabric. A walking foot will give you the best results.
If you have extremely stretchy fabric, you can use a strip of wonder tape before top stitching your pocket. Place it under the fold and stitch through it.
Lining the Pocket Up
With your pocket pressed and top stitched, you’re ready to attach it to the shirt. If using a pattern, make sure you’ve transferred the pattern markings onto your shirt fabric. Pattern markings for pockets will be found on the shirt front, and are usually indicated with circles.
Make sure you’re lining the pattern markings up with the correct side of the shirt. Almost all t-shirts have the pocket on the left side of the shirt.
If you don’t have a sewing pattern with a pocket, find a similar t-shirt from your closet that does have a pocket. Line your shirt front piece up with the t-shirt and mark where the top corners of the pocket are. This is probably your best bet for lining up the pocket.
Using Wonder Tape
Personally, I find wonder tape gives me the best results. Place a strip of wonder tape along the sides and bottom of the pocket. Once taped, line up the pocket with the markings on the shirt. Then simply press the pocket in place. For bet results, I still recommend pinning your pocket to the shirt even if you are using wonder tape.
Using Tissue Paper
If you don’t have wonder tape, cut a piece of tissue paper that’s about 2″ larger than the outline of your pocket. Place the paper under the shirt fabric (on the wrong side) so it’s beneath the area where you will attach the pocket. Then lay the pocket over the pattern markings and pin it in place. Be sure to pin through the tissue paper and the fabric. You may need to lift the shirt as you’re pinning to catch the tissue paper.
Using Pins
If you don’t have tissue paper or a wonder tape, I recommend just using a lot of pins. It’s not ideal, but using lots of pins will help hold the pocket in place a little better. You can pin along the edge and inside of the pocket area if you like. The pins inside the pocket area can remain in place as you sew, while you will need to remove the ones along the edge as you get to them.
Sewing the Pocket on the Shirt
Now that your pocket is pinned, you can start sewing it! If you haven’t done so already, remember to switch your foot to a walking foot now.
Starting at the left edge of the pocket (closest to the underarm), begin sewing as close as you can to the edge of the pocket. Remember to back stitch at the top edge.
Making sure you’re not accidentally catching other layers of fabric, sew all the way to the bottom edge.
When you get to the corner, and place your needle down into the fabric. Lift the foot and pivot the pocket.
Continue sewing along the bottom edge and pivot at the next corner.
Sew up the right edge of the pocket and back stitch when you get to the top.
If you used tissue paper, you can rip it off the fabric now. Little bits might get caught in the threads, but these should come out in the wash.
If you used wonder tape, keep in mind your pocket won’t be very stretchy at first. Once you wash the shirt, the tape will dissolve and the pocket will stretch.
Do I need to use a stretch stitch when sewing a pocket on knits?
When sewing knit fabric, you usually need to use a stretch stitch. This is done so your stitches don’t rip out when the fabric is stretched.
A pocket typically doesn’t need to stretch when the shirt is worn. For that reason, you don’t need to use a stretch stitch when sewing a pocket. You can use regular thread and a straight stitch when sewing a pocket on knits. However, if you are making an extremely tight-fitting t-shirt, you may want to consider using a stretch stitch. Alternatively, you could use wooly nylon thread.
Stretchy seams are really only necessary for parts of the shirt that may stretch when it’s worn. For example, the sleeve and bottom hem, the neckband, and the shoulder/sleeve/side seams should all be sewn with a stretch stitch or serger.
